Itinerary
Day 0 (12/6) | Day 1 (12/7) | Day 2 (12/8) | Day 3 (12/9) | Day 4 (12/10) | Day 5 (12/11) | Day 6 (12/12) | Day 7 (12/13) | Day 8 (12/14) | Day 9 (12/15) | Day 10 (12/16) | Day 11 (12/17) |
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Arrive In Auckland | Auckland/ Waiheke Island | Auckland to Taupō | Taupō to Wellington | Wellington | Wellington to Christchurch (coastal route) | Christchurch | Christchurch | Christchurch to Wellington (mountain route) | Wellington to Whanganui | Whanganui to Waitomo | Waitomo to Raglan to Auckland |
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Trip Overview
I want to share everything we managed to pack into 10 full days, driving from Auckland to Christchurch and back. I intend to keep things relatively brief here, as certain days and experiences deserve their own post to fully encapsulate the adventure(s). If there's anything I cover superficially that you'd like to know more about, please don't be shy: let me know in the comments!
Something to keep in mind when reading the following description of our trip and opinions/recommendations: our goal for this vacation was to have a comfortable but adventure-filled mix of urban, rural, and cultural experiences.
Don't care about the details? Click here to skip ahead to the next section on recommendations/lessons-learned/etc.
Arrive in Auckland (Dec. 6)
Day 0
We landed much earlier than the check-in time for our Airbnb in Auckland, so we found a place to store our luggage while we explored the city. It was here that we first discovered the Kura Gallery and fell in love with their selection, but were eager to visit their larger Wellington location when we got there later in the trip. We walked around the city some more, stopping for some memorable ice cream at Giapo, and of course, the Auckland Sky Tower (grabbing some tea with a spectacular panoramic view of the harbor at the top). After we collected our luggage and checked into our cute little Airbnb, with a fantastic view of the Sky Tower from our bed, we enjoyed a tasty dinner at a beautiful restaurant called Masu.
Day 1
The majority of this day was dedicated to an excursion to Waiheke Island for a Boutique Wine Tour. Our fantastically entertaining and knowledgeable guide took us on a gorgeous van tour of the island, teaching us along the way about the local flora/fauna, history of the island, and vineyards/wines we were about to visit/taste. The three vineyards we toured (Jurassic Ridge, Obsidian, and Passage Rock) were carefully and well-selected by our guide. Of these, we both enjoyed Jurassic Ridge the most. Before catching the ferry back, our guide dropped us off in the main little strip of shops and restaurants on the island, where we admired the amazing and unique selection at the Space Art Gallery and grabbed some food.
Auckland —> Taupō (Dec. 8)
Day 2
As one of our favorite days of the trip, I certainly plan on writing an additional detailed post about these activities, so I'm going to summarize things concisely here. After checking out of our Auckland Airbnb, we meandered down to Hell's Gate Geothermal Park/ Mud Bath Spa, briefly pulling over to admire Lake Taupō along the way. The geothermal activity was fun to explore, followed by an interesting Māori carving workshop and relaxing mud baths!
We then made our way over to Orakei Korako, where we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one of their geysers erupting upon our arrival from afar. There was a cute little boat ride across the river from the entrance to the park, which is highlighted with spectacular views of the magnificent colors that enrich the unique geothermal landscape before getting to see them up close.
Following these fun geothermal adventures, we went on a sunset sailing tour of the Māori Rock Carvings, which included a complimentary glass of wine and a dip in (FREEZING) Lake Taupō. Our Captain was very entertaining and well-educated on the Māori carvings we visited; and we were also fortunate enough to have some wonderful, diverse, entertaining company on our boat. We ended this thrilling day by enjoying a delicious meal at Vine Eatery & Bar with some new international friends we made while on our boat tour!
Taupō —> Wellington (Dec. 9)
Day 3
Unfortunately, we didn't even think to look into major events that may have interrupted our plans... but FORTUNATELY, we managed to work around the unexpected Iron Man competition we woke up to in Taupō. After breakfast in town, our first activity was a quick stop at Huka Falls, followed by some amusing exploration around Craters of the Moon Geothermal Walk. Both relatively short excursions basically across the street from one another, Huka Falls and Craters of the Moon were fun and accessible activities we'd both recommend to anyone staying in Taupō. From there, we started making our way to Wellington; where we checked into our Airbnb before walking down Cuba Street and enjoying a fantastic dinner at Ortega.
Day 4
We started the rainy day in Wellington with a failed attempt at finding a pop-up harborside market. But we found a cute place for breakfast before discovering the Wellington location of the Kura Gallery we loved in Auckland. We then avoided the rain by checking out the unbelievably well curated and designed Te Papa Museum (along with everyone else in Wellington). As crowded as it was in certain exhibits, we were stunned by how incredible they all were and had so much fun exploring them!
Despite the gloomy weather, we then ventured up the Wellington Cable Car, enjoying the colorful light show in the tunnels along the way, to explore the Wellington Botanic Gardens. Though a bit difficult to traverse in the rain, the gardens were quite impressive and I can only imagine how beautiful it must be to visit on a sunny day!
Once we got our fill, we took the Cable Car back down and went to the most mouth-wateringly delicious multi-course lunch at Rita. After which, we made the drive up to the Mount Victoria Lookout to take in the beautiful views of the city while there was a break in the rain.We then had fun playing with all the interactive exhibits at the Wellington Museum before having a nice dinner at Charley Noble.
Wellington —> Christchurch (Dec. 11)
Day 5
We woke up super early to catch our ferry to the South Island, where we were graced with a spectacular sunrise on the boat and a visit from a small pod of dolphins! Once we arrived in Picton, we off-loaded and made our way South towards Christchurch along the Eastern Coast.
Just before reaching Kaikōura, we stopped at Nin's Bin, a DELICIOUS seafood truck with stunning beach views (just be prepared to fight off seagulls for your food). Afterwards, we made our way into Kaikōura to check out the resident seal colony before continuing on our way down to Christchurch.
Upon arrival, we quickly checked into our Airbnb, dropped off our stuff, and made our way up to the meet point to go paragliding. Unfortunately, the wind died down so we were unable to get the full experience, but we LOVED getting a brief taste of the adventure! Moreover, in addition to the discount due to the shortened trips in the air, we were extremely grateful that Christchurch Paragliding was so flexible with scheduling, as the weather for the rest of our time in Christchurch would not have been conducive for paragliding (and thus wouldn't have had the chance to go at all).
We capped off the day with some divine pizza and drinks in the beautifully decorated Arbour Pizza, who were so accommodating to take us as they were preparing to close their doors for the evening.
Day 6
The next morning, we checked out the impressive Riverside Market which was adorned with STUNNING murals and was gloriously decorated for the Holidays, complete with "New Zealand Christmas Tree" garland. After grabbing a bite to eat and exploring the shops, we escaped the rain by checking out the Christchurch Art Gallery and Quake City. From there, we made our way to the gorgeous Christchurch Botanic Gardens, which (again) I would imagine would be even more remarkable on a nice day!
Our next venture took us to the top of Mount Vaendish via the Christchurch Gondola, offering picturesque panoramic views of the city and coast. After which, we explored the shops at The Tannery, wandered around New Regent Street, and found Hettie's Rock Shop's main location in search of Aotea stone (we were successful). Finally, we finished the day with an incredibly unique and exquisite dinner on the historical Tramway Restaurant, easily the most romantic way to tour the beautiful city of Christchurch!
Day 7
Another favorite day of the trip, we started off with an exceptionally memorable experience Jade Carving with Jax (an activity SO spectacular that it deserves its own dedicated/detailed blog post). Honestly, we cannot speak highly enough of Jax and the extraordinary memories she fostered with her incredible studio (one I dream of having one day), depth of knowledge of New Zealand Jade/Pounamu/Nephrite and lapidary/jewelry-making techniques, patience and guidance, and enthralling conversations. I was having so much fun that I was literally shaking with excitement and anticipation!
We then made our way to Akaroa, a cute little harbor town in the center of a collapsed ancient volcanic crater. Our first stop was The Giant's House, a Sculpture Mosaic Garden (and Contemporary Art Gallery) by artist Josie Martin that was SO remarkably impressive that it genuinely rivals Gaudí's Park Güell in Barcelona, despite being much smaller and lesser known. Considered a "Garden of International Significance", the landscaping could only be rivaled by the brilliant colors and intricate details of the whimsically immersive mosaics.
Before making our way back to Christchurch, we had a wonderful time at French Peak Vineyard and Accommodation, tasting award-winning wines and the most delectable, locally-sourced charcuterie board. Followed by a lovely time exploring the stunning vineyard grounds and garden (bonus: you may be graced with company from the friendliest kitty, Kumara).
Christchurch —> Wellington (Dec. 14)
Day 8
On our way back to Picton to catch the ferry to Wellington, we chose to change things up and take the mountainous route through Lewis Pass (instead of the coastal route). Our first pit stop was at the beautiful Maruia Falls, which was easy to find... but our second stop to find Ariki falls wasn't quite as smooth, as I don't think we quite found the proper way to get there – but it made for a fun adventure!
We then made our way up to check out the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge Adventure & Heritage Park, where we used the longest swing bridge in New Zealand to explore a beautiful old mining area (where you can still pan for gold!) and hiked through an ACTUAL fault line.
Afterwards, we made our way to Murchison to find a place to grab some refreshments before stopping in St. Arnaud to go on a short hike through wild kiwi country (literally, the Nelson Lakes area is one of the few where kiwis, specifically the Great Spotted Kiwi, can still be found in the wild). Once we stretched out our legs a bit, we continued our journey on to Picton to catch our ferry back to the North Island.
Wellington —> Whanganui (Dec. 15)
Day 9
We made a third (and final) stop at our favorite art gallery in New Zealand, Kura Gallery, to make sure that we got all the souvenirs and gifts we needed before making our way to Whanganui. On our way, we stopped at Paloma Gardens, which was so spectacular that it will HAVE to be highlighted more thoroughly in a future post.
After checking into our BEAUTIFULLY restored historical Airbnb (with stunning views of the Whanganui river just outside), we stopped at some art galleries on our way to the Whanganui Regional Museum. Before our delicious dinner at Maria Lane, we took the Historic Durie Hill Elevator up to the Durie Hill Tower to admire the views from Mount Ruapehu to where the sacred Whanganui River meets the sea.
Upon recommendation by a Māori man we met prior to departing Wellington, we looked up a Māori Karakia ("blessing") for our Pounamu (a.k.a. New Zealand Jade/Nephrite) while cleansing them in the Whanganui River, known to be so sacred to the Māori that it holds legal "personhood" status in New Zealand. This ritual is thought to bring good luck and protection to those leaving the island or receiving a piece of pounamu. The one we used is called "Kia Hora Te Marino":
"Kia hora te marino, kia whakapapa pounamu te moana, kia tere karohirohi i mua i tou huarahi."
Translation: "May calm be spread around you, may the sea glisten like greenstone and the shimmer of summer dance across your path" (source)
Whanganui —> Ōtorohanga (Dec. 16)
Day 10
We checked out of our Airbnb early in the morning and headed up to Waitomo for the "Black Abyss" Tour offered by The Legendary Blackwater Rafting, Co. I ABSOLUTELY plan on writing a more detailed post about this unparalleled adventure, but our guides took us abseiling/rappelling into, ziplining/tubing/spelunking through, and scrambling up waterfalls out of the famous GLOWWORM CAVES! This was the most unbelievable way to experience something that's been "on my bucket list" ever since I first learned about them years ago and I truly can't express how strongly I recommend it.
We chose to unwind from the extraordinary, adrenaline-pumping adventure we just had by exploring The Ōtorohanga Kiwi House, where we saw many unique, native avian and reptilian species; and we were lucky enough to see TWO kiwis while we were there! Surprisingly, despite being called "kiwis" themselves, most New Zealanders have never had the opportunity to see these fascinating but elusive birds.
Then we checked into our cute Airbnb, followed by dinner at Jasmine Thai, stopping at two of the giant kiwi statues in town along the way. Finally, we wrapped up a phenomenal day with a stunning sunset trek along the Ruakuri Walk, finding our own glowworms in the caves there!
Ōtorohanga —> Auckland (Dec. 17)
Day 11
On our last morning, we headed to Raglan bright and early to check out the NZ Christmas trees, beaches, wharf, and stop for tea/coffee before making our way back to the Auckland Airport!
Reviews, Recommendations, Lessons Learned, etc.
VISAS
For once, my travel anxiety came in clutch, as I insisted on getting to the airport early... where we discovered that we needed to apply and get approval for travel visas before we could check in! Nowhere in our research did either of us remember coming across the need for a visa, so we were shocked to hear this news; but fortunately, the agent provided us with the information we needed (NZeTA and NZTD) and both the application and approval processes were EXTREMELY fast and easy. While it only took a few minutes for both of us, but the NZeTA site says the process can take up to 72 hours, so save yourself the stress and do it in advance!
Length of Stay
This, of course, is dependent upon many factors (such as planned destinations, routes, activities, mode of travel, personal preferences, etc.); therefore, the following information/opinions are based on our own itinerary and experience.
Although we truly maximized each day to experience as much of what NZ had to offer between Auckland and Christchurch, we both agreed an extra day or two would have been nice to feel less rushed (and potentially have seen/done even more). However, if we had wanted to make it all the way to Queenstown, as we had originally hoped, we knew we would have needed to add at least an extra 5-7 days (in order to stretch out/break up long drives).
Thus, while we've shown that 10 full days is sufficient to have a phenomenal adventure from Auckland to Christchurch and back, we both feel like 11-12 days for the same geographical span would be ideal and a minimum of 15-17 days would be recommended if you want to make it down to Queenstown.
Note: be sure to consider the length of time it takes to fly to/from where you live (and whether you have to cross the international date line) when requesting time off and booking flights, as the timeframes recommended above are for FULL days physically in NZ.
Transportation and Lodging
Many people recommended renting a camper van, as this allows for greater flexibility in your itinerary and can be done affordably. However, we read some things about the narrow roads, were already unsure about how comfortable we'd feel driving on the left side of the road (but found some resources to help us prepare), weren't sure how challenging it might be to find/plan stops (although we found out about some extremely helpful apps/resources while we were down there that would have made this less of a concern), read that some ferries between the islands didn't allow camper vans, wanted the flexibility to travel more easily/freely in urban areas, and wanted the level of extra comfort that comes with staying in an Airbnb (e.g., showers, air conditioning, etc.).
Taken together, we decided to rent a car and reserve Airbnb's along the way instead. Perhaps not the MOST economical, we're both happy with our decision given our wonderful experience and agree that we made the best choice with the information we had available to us at the time, and still might have made the same one in retrospect.
Activities
I don't think there was a single thing we did that we would actively recommend against, but some of our favorite singular activities were our geothermal adventures at Hell's Gate/Orakei Korako/Craters of the Moon and Sunset Tour of the Māori Rock Carvings in Taupō, Jade Carving and Paragliding in Christchurch, exploring The Giant's House and French Peak Winery in Akaroa, Paloma Gardens outside of Whanganui, the Kiwi House in Ōtorohanga, and of course (saving the best for last): the Black Abyss Tour of the Glowworm Caves in Waitomo! But we truly enjoyed everything we did so much that even narrowing it down to our 11 favorite activities was difficult, especially since some of the things we did were so extraordinary that it's almost unfair to compare them all... even our "travel days" were fun!
Weather
Despite being there just prior to their Summer Solstice (December 21), the weather was frequently much chillier than we had anticipated, especially the further South we went. However, one of the biggest holes in the ozone layer is actually over New Zealand, so the sun was STRONG and it could get pretty hot in the middle of the day if it was out. Therefore, even in mid-December, I'd strongly recommend packing: layers, warm socks, at least one windbreaker and/or rain jacket, at least one lightweight beanie/hat and scarf, a cap/visor, sunglasses, and sufficient sunscreen (or purchasing this upon arrival; see below for detailed packing recommendations).
Also, we had no idea there was such a thing as a "New Zealand Christmas Tree" but were incredibly lucky to discover that they were in FULL bloom for the entirety of our trip!
What to Pack
This obviously STRONGLY depends on many factors, such as planned activities/length of stay/time of year/modes of travel/etc. But here is what I brought and/or wished I had for our trip from Dec. 6-17, 2023:
1-2 pairs of pants in the casual-to-nice category (e.g., 1 pair jeans and 1 pair nicer and/or warmer– but at least equally warm– bottoms)
In terms of casual-to-nice and REMOTELY warm pants: I only brought 1 pair of jeans (with holes in them) and DEFINITELY wish I had brought nicer/warmer pants than [just] those
1-3 pairs of sweats/joggers/athletic pants and/or capris
This one is probably the most dependent upon things like time of year/ method of travel/your biology or preferences/ types of activities planned/ etc. But based on OUR trip and MY preferences, I wish I had 1 pair of lightweight joggers/"lounge pants" (primarily for traveling), 1 pair of athletic/water-resistant pants OR capris, and 1 pair of warm sweatpants
2-3 pairs of shorts (1-2 athletic and 1 denim/casual)
1-2 athletic tank tops
3-4 basic, layering tees/tanks
2-3 cardigans/zip-ups
2-3 light sweaters/long-sleeve tees
1-2 warm sweaters/sweatshirts
The warmest thing I had was a pullover that was only in my bag because of the temperature outside when we LEFT Omaha, and I am SO glad I had it!
1-2 casual-to-nice looking "athletic" dresses (i.e., the kind with built-in support and can be balled up in a bag without looking wrinkled when it comes out)
I personally brought 2: one from Prana and one from Kohls (FLX brand); I'm not sure I would have needed both if I had brought a nicer/warmer pair of pants than my jeans, though
1-2 pairs of lightweight pajamas/nightgowns
I tend to "run warm" when I sleep and most places we stayed either lacked AC strength or entirely altogether, so in retrospect, I wouldn't have wasted the space bringing a pair of warmer pajamas
1 bathing suit (and 1 cover-up if other clothes won't suffice)
I brought 2-3 but ultimately, I only really needed one
Socks, bras, & underwear: the type/number needed 100% depends on your own preferences/length of stay/activities planned/access to laundry/etc.
However, I would personally recommend including at least 1-2 pairs of warm socks
Rain jacket/waterproof windbreaker (especially if planning on spending any time on the water, including ferries)
Lightweight puffy jacket
Lightweight beanie/hat
Warm scarf
1 sun visor/cap and sunglasses (with a pair of croakies)
Purse/hiking bag
This crossbody from Kavu suited my needs perfectly
1 pair hiking boots
1 pair of athletic sandals (e.g., Chacos)
1 pair casual sneakers to walk around cities
Having a bad knee, pavement can be one of the toughest things on it, but these (Dr. Scholl's Madison Sneaker) served me extremely well!
Towel
I was psyched to have one of these convertible towel/backpacks from Sandcloud for each of us
Water bottle (if space and/or weight is a concern, collapsible silicone ones are a wonderful alternative)
Portable chargers, charging cables, and adapters for electronics
Necessary prescriptions, toiletries (including sunscreen, unless planning to purchase upon arrival), etc.
Optional: consider investing in a mobile hotspot (like this one), especially if you enjoy traveling internationally, plan to stay for a significant period of time, and/or do not have an international phone plan
Note: 30GB was more than enough for the two of us for the length of our trip, and we potentially could have gotten by with only 15GB if we had been more conservative
Lessons Learned
Book a longer trip (if you can afford it) and account for lost time traveling (and crossing the international date line, if applicable).
Request New Zealand Electronic Travel Authority and complete New Zealand Traveler Declaration at least several days prior to scheduled departure.
Traveling by camper van does seem easier and cheaper than we first thought, but there are pros and cons to both, so we're still happy.
Be SURE to book ferries (ESPECIALLY if you have any type of vehicle) between islands as FAR in advance as possible.
Download "offline maps" (when connected to Wifi) for navigation whenever possible to save data.
On a related note, the most commonly used "rideshare" and rentable scooter apps down there seemed to be Uber, Lime, and Beam; if planning to utilize these modes of transport, I'd recommend downloading these over Wifi in advance as well.
DON'T forget to pack (or buy upon arrival) sunscreen, even if only for your face (if visiting when cold).
While generally an extremely safe country in terms of crime, it's always good to be aware of your belongings and surroundings, but things like a "money belt" are likely unnecessary. However, we heard that it's not uncommon for cars to get broken into if things were left visible; so be very mindful of what is left in your vehicle and can be seen.
Drive safe: break up any long travel stretches with short excursions/pit-stops. The entire country is riddled with countless fun activities and spectacular scenery, so allow for extra time for your journey and be sure to research different attractions, lookouts, etc. along your drive to break it up and stay fresh.
Similarly, familiarize yourself with local traffic laws, especially if you're not used to driving on the left side of the road (we found this video was helpful).
If buying New Zealand Jade/Pounamu/Nephrite for yourself or as gifts for others, note that each design has a specific meaning to the Māori and consider trying to "bless it" in a natural body of water before leaving the country for good luck.
Fun fact: Waitomo is not the ONLY place in NZ to see glowworms, and while I'd recommend doing your research to see if you might be able to find them on your own somewhere else you're stopping, I still HAVE to 100% recommend the mindblowing adventures the Legendary Blackwater Rafting, Co. offer!
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